Base coat of primer and many rivets have been removed. I am very happy with the finished product on this kit. Stay tuned for my next post, it is not gaming related but promises much awesomeness.
Hey War Frog, this follows up your comments left on my site. I was actually reading your blog yesterday when debating the purchase of this kit.
With my crack filling I add GS then when dry carve it flush. In the angled areas this usually works really well. I've also used bondo and sanded it.
The areas I usually have a problem are curved surfaces (like where that copula extends from the hull) or areas in crannies where you wouldn't be able to fit sand paper anyway. How would your method work here? Is the super glue a better technique than using bondo? I would assume the fumes and dust from both are equally hazardous.
Anyway nice work on this kit (you definately have a smooth outcome with superglue though I think bondo achieves something very similar). I was debating the purchase of this kit and I think I will despite the work you had to put into it. Definately nice to know what I am getting into.
I use resins and heavy duty cleaners in my hobby room. I would be uncomfortable using Bondo or fiberglass resins in my house. Super glue and baking soda to my knowledge do not emit unsafe fumes. For the rounded areas I would recommend cutting long thin strips of wet sand-able sand paper like 1/4 inch wide by 6-8 inches long and use that to sand the curves. place the model in a vise and hold the strip at each end sanding slowly so that the paper strip can follow your curve lines.
UPDATE: I have recently found out that recently GW re-tooled the mold for the chimera and Leman Russ. The Chimera body I used was the original sculpt, My understanding is the Russ has a considerable size difference where as the Chimera is barely different in size. It is possible that my using the older sculpt of this kit lead to some of the mis-alignment at the front of the kit.
Automatic shotguns FTW!
ReplyDeleteHey War Frog, this follows up your comments left on my site. I was actually reading your blog yesterday when debating the purchase of this kit.
ReplyDeleteWith my crack filling I add GS then when dry carve it flush. In the angled areas this usually works really well. I've also used bondo and sanded it.
The areas I usually have a problem are curved surfaces (like where that copula extends from the hull) or areas in crannies where you wouldn't be able to fit sand paper anyway. How would your method work here? Is the super glue a better technique than using bondo? I would assume the fumes and dust from both are equally hazardous.
Anyway nice work on this kit (you definately have a smooth outcome with superglue though I think bondo achieves something very similar). I was debating the purchase of this kit and I think I will despite the work you had to put into it. Definately nice to know what I am getting into.
I use resins and heavy duty cleaners in my hobby room. I would be uncomfortable using Bondo or fiberglass resins in my house. Super glue and baking soda to my knowledge do not emit unsafe fumes. For the rounded areas I would recommend cutting long thin strips of wet sand-able sand paper like 1/4 inch wide by 6-8 inches long and use that to sand the curves. place the model in a vise and hold the strip at each end sanding slowly so that the paper strip can follow your curve lines.
ReplyDeleteUPDATE:
ReplyDeleteI have recently found out that recently GW re-tooled the mold for the chimera and Leman Russ. The Chimera body I used was the original sculpt, My understanding is the Russ has a considerable size difference where as the Chimera is barely different in size. It is possible that my using the older sculpt of this kit lead to some of the mis-alignment at the front of the kit.